Thursday, 19 September 2013

SUNDAY 15th SEPTEMBER: GROUND ZERO, CENTRAL PARK and GREENWICH VILLAGE

We were booked into Ground Zero for 11 am so we set off walking straight after breakfast. As with last night, the architecture along the way was stunning.



The walk took us through City Hall Park, a communal pasture in the 17th century and the seat of New York's municipal government since 1812.
Towards the northern end of the park sits City Hall, a gleaming white marble palace virtually unchanged since it was completed in 1812. It's the oldest city hall in the US to retain its original government function.


The Woolworth Building
From 1913 to 1929 this was the tallest building in the world.
Covered in white terracotta and fringed with Gothic-style gargoyles and decorations, this 'Cathedral of Commerce' oozes money and prestige. Frank Woolworth made his fortune from his 'five and dime' stores (everything cost either 5 or 10 cents, and strictly no credit) and true to character, he paid cash for the construction of his skyscraper. Reliefs at each corner of the the ornate lobby show him counting out the purchase price in nickels and dimes!





GROUND ZERO

'Where you were on 9/11' has become one of those iconic milestones in life, on a par with 'where you were when Kennedy was shot'.
A total of 7 buildings were destroyed in the attack and today the area is coming to the end of a massive rebuilding and regenerating project.

The South Pool
The 2 memorial pools represent the footprints of the original towers, each one about one acre in size.






The names of the 9/11 victims are inscribed on parapets surrounding the pools.
The racial diversity of the victims is all too apparent from their names. You can't but be moved by the sheer scale of the death toll and the occasional rose placed by a particular name. We were particularly struck by a man lovingly making a brass-rubbing of a name and showing it to his toddler son, and the reference to a woman 'and her unborn child' who died.



Waterfalls tumble down the 30 feet sides of each pool, seeming to disappear into the abyss.



All around you can see evidence of regeneration, but mixed with the iconic buildings of an earlier pre-terror days.




It's a truly beautiful memorial full of trees and seating areas where you can quietly sit and think; full of people but with no feeling of being rushed or pressurised.

On a much lighter note, we headed for Starbucks and who should Sue spot walking along with his wife, clearly having been to the memorial too? Fabio Capello, ex-England football manager. New York gave him near-anonymity.

Battery Park City
The hole dug for the foundations of the former World Trade Centre threw up a million cubic tons of earth and rock which was then dumped into the Hudson river to form the 23 acre base of Battery Park City, a development of office-blocks, apartments, shops and a landscaped esplanade.





THE IRISH HUNGER MEMORIAL
Sue was keen to visit this sobering monument to the more than one million Irish people that starved to death during the Great Famine of 1845-1852. The Famine sparked a flood of Irish immigrants to the US, mostly through New York. Many of these came from County Longford.


An authentic famine-era stone cottage , one of the many abandoned in the west of Ireland, was transported from County Mayo by artist Brian Tolle and set on a raised embankment overlooking the water.






We followed the meandering path through the grassy garden (the grass and flowers were all brought from Ireland) and stones 25 feet to the top.


32 stones commemorate the counties of Ireland.


They're in no particular order, and half-way up the path we found the Longford stone.




CENTRAL PARK
Poet and newspaper editor William Cullen Bryant is credited with first publicizing the idea for an open public space in Manhattan in 1844. In 1851 City Hall agreed, paying $5 million for 840 acres north of the (then) city limits at 38th Street. It took 16 years and $14 million ($270 million in today's money) to construct the entire park, opening to the public in 1876.
Today it serves purposes as varied as the individuals who take advantage of it: an environmental haven, a beach, a running track, a venue for pop music and street entertainers, and much more: most of which we saw on the sunny Sunday afternoon we were there.






The Reservoir



The Mall



Click to enjoy!

Sheep grazed here till 1934.

A peaceful area dedicated to John Lennon
An Italianate mosaic donated by Yoko Ono

John Lennon was murdered on December 8th 1980 by Mark Chapman in front of his home in the Dakota Building.

THE DAKOTA BUILDING

Just to prove we were there!
Just north of the Dakota, the San Remo dates from 1930. The residents' board is renowned for being snooty: they prevented Madonna from buying an apartment.
The San Remo
GREENWICH VILLAGE
Not an area of the city we'd yet visited and redolent of Bob Dylan, we decided to give it a try for dinner tonight. After consulting the books we opted for the much-recommended Ye Waverly Inn.
Walking through Greenwich Village lived up to expectations, and the restaurant building, partly dating from the 17th century, was quaint and quirky.
 BUT the wine menu had to be seen to be believed. Prices for a bottle ranged from $60 to $1760 (yes, you have read that correctly, one thousand seven hundred and sixty dollars), with the average price around $400!!! We were cheapskate and ordered 3 beers at $8 each, obviously much to the waiters'
disgust.

Monday, 16 September 2013

SATURDAY 14 SEPTEMBER 2013: FINANCIAL DISTRICT

As we are staying in a hotel just off Wall St. it seemed sensible, once we'd settled into the rooms, to tackle the jet-lag and kick-off our stay with a stroll around the immediate area.

Wall St takes its name from the wooden stockade built by the Dutch in 1653 to protect themselves from the British colonies further north, and has been associated with money since the 18th century.




11 Wall St. is the address of the New York Stock Exchange but the main building, dating from 1903,  is at 18 Broad St. with its 6 mammoth Corinthian columns and monumental statues representing Integrity surrounded by Agriculture, Mining, Science, Industry and Invention.
Not too sure how 'Integrity' fared in 2008.


 Trading began in the aftermath of the Revolutionary war, and became so popular that in 1792 a group of 22 stockbrokers and merchants gathered underneath a buttonwood tree on Wall St., forming the initial trading group that would go on to be renamed the New York Stock Exchange in 1817.
We had to admit that it was strange to see at close quarters a building that is an almost-daily image for us back in the UK, Steve being a Bloomberg addict.




The architecture is stunning, with surprising vistas at every turn.


Many banks and financial institutions have now moved out of Wall St. and the buildings are increasingly being converted into high-end condos and shops.


The Trump Building
This is all too apparent at 40 Wall St. This former Bank of Manhatten Trust building was briefly the world's tallest skyscraper in 1930 (at 927 feet) before being topped by the Chrysler Building. Bought for $1 million in 1995, today it has an array of shops on the ground floor.


Federal Hall
26 Wall St. is where in 1789 George Washington was sworn in as America's first President on a second-floor balcony of what was then New York's second City Hall, commemorated by a monumental statue of Washington outside. At that time New York was the de facto capital of the nation and details of the US Constitution and Bill of Rights were also hammered out by Congress on this site. The present building was completed in 1842 as the US Customs House.



As nice as it would have been to have shopped here, we resisted the temptation.


As we walked along Wall St this first evening here, the architecture was stunning.


Trinity Church
Built in 1846, this was the city's tallest building for 50 years, a reminder of how relatively recently high-rise Manhatten has sprung up.

Trinity Church







South Street Seaport
We hadn't intended to go much further than Wall St. tonight but caught a glimpse of water and went to have a look.
This is a tiny part of New York's original dockyards, since 1966 converted into a tourist area of shops and restaurants. It's now undergoing a refurb, partly as it is in need of modernisation, but also partly because of the damage caused last year by Hurricane Sandy. What it lacked in amenities, however, it more than made up for in its relaxed atmosphere and beautiful views.


You can cruise around the harbour on a fleet of 19th century vessels .......


....... or take the water taxi.








And there's a fine view of both the Brooklyn and Manhatten Bridges.


Saturday, 14 September 2013

SATURDAY 14 SEPTEMBER 2013

A happy day and a sad day today.

Happy because we are taking a trip with Chris to New York to celebrate his turning 30 last May.

Sad because Sue's aunt, Winnie, is being buried today at 11am. after a long and debilitating illness. Winnie was a lively, vibrant lady, and at 89 was the last survivor of the 13 Hanafees.  There will a gathering of family and cousins from around the world today to mark her passing and Sue would dearly have loved to have been there. We are thinking of Colette, Jackie, Marita and the family today.

Thursday, 1 November 2012

HOME for HALLOWEEN


What a time of year to have been in America!!
Halloween is barely celebrated at home BUT over here it's a very different story.
Whatever you think about 'trick or treat', the orange colour and the sheer invention of the displays lifts the spirits!


Just some of the many Halloween preparations we've seen (and which bring back very happy memories of many of the places we visited):

At Apple Hill:




Among the vineyards at Napa:

At Poppy Hill Golf Course in Carmel:

Among Cambria's scarecrows:






At Solvang:




Not sure what happened to his head!

At Arroyo Grande:


From Venice Beach Canals:


Hey Dude!



Taking 'laid back' too far?