Sunday 30 September 2012

26 SEPTEMBER 2012: THE NAVAJO NATION

Day 10:

Today was to be about the life and culture of Native Americans, especially the Navajo tribe. So to get us started, Becky handed out some photos of prominent past Indians and got people to read out the info.Steve was the first to go, and read out about U-Ray, the chief of the Ute tribe (after which Utah state is named.)

The Navajo:

  • Not their real name but what they were called by the Spaniards who came in the 16th century. Their own name is 'Dine' meaning 'the People '. Originally from Canada, their modern story started in 1863 when Colonel Kit Carson was sent by the US government to force the Navajo 300 miles to Fort Sumner. This 'Long Walk' and its cruelties is indelible in Navajo memory. 8,000 Navajos were interred in Fort Sumner in 1863. By 1867 only 5,000 returned to Navajoland.
  • In 1864 the Navajo, led by Chief Hoskinini, fled from Kit Carson's troops to safety in Monument Valley. In 1868 the tribe signed a treaty that granted them the land they now occupy as the Navajo Indian Nation.
  • The Navajo Nation covers 27,000 sq. mls. and is semi-autonomous area answerable to federal, but not State, governments.
  • Hogan = a sanctuary for the family, traditionally domed and hexagon-shaped. It is always hand-constructed and of native materials. A still-observed tradition is the 'blessing way rite' performed before a family take up permanent residence.
  • Native plants are much used. The Yucca, for example, is used to make shoes, baskets, clothing and soaps.
  • Fetishes = good luck charms that are worn around the neck. Animals represent different aspects of good luck
    • bear = resourcefulness
    • turtle = long life
    • frog = fertility
    • mole = connection with inner-earth (those of you who have visited us in Les Chapuis, and have seen Steve's relentless quest to kill all moles in our garden, will know this fetish is not for him!)

Kayenta, Az:
First stop today was in Kayenta, the nearest town to Monument Valley. In 1910 the first trading post was opened here by John Wetherill (NICK AND LIN ALERT!!!)

Where else but America would you be able to view  historical records in a Burger King?


Just outside was a reconstruction of traditional Navajo buildings.
The Hogan, where the Navajo lived, always faced east and even today had no water or electricity.

Normally men and women slept on separate sides of the hogan, but there could sometimes be problems with visitors. Visitors would be expected to sleep together and everyone else would move temporarily into the other side of the hogan, but this was not always easily done!



Welcome to our sweat house.

The Navajo Code Talkers:
'Without the Navajo the Marines would never have taken Iwa Jima': Major Howard Connor.

There was also a fascinating display in the Burger King on the little-known Navajo Code Talkers.
Although it was not publically known until the 1960s, the Navajo played a crucial role in the Pacific Campaign of WW2. The American government were desperately trying to find a way of sending coded messages that could not be deciphered by the Japanese. It was suggested to them that the Navajo language, which was spoken by relatively few people and had never been a written language, could be the answer. Thirty so-called Code Talkers were recruited to begin the programme and the new code was sent to Bletchley Park in the UK to be put through the Enigma machine to see if it could be broken. It passed with flying colours and henceforth was used in the Pacific Campaign, never being decoded by the Japanese.
Unfortunately, after 1945 the contribution of the Navajo was not recognised and Navajo military veterans returning to the US were shunned. Many failed to find employment and had to return to the reservations to live in poverty.



MONUMENT VALLEY.
The Facts:

  • 5500 feet above sea level
  • rainfall averages 8 inches p.a.
  • temperatures:
    • average low of 25 degrees F in winter
    • average high of 90 degrees F in summer
The Geology:
Before human existence, it was a vast lowland basin. For millions of years layers of eroded sediment from the Rocky Mountains were deposited in the basin, mainly forming sandstone and limestone. A slow , gentle uplift created from the basin a plateau of solid rock 1000 feet high. For the last 50 million years wind, rain and temperature have cut and peeled away the surface of this plateau. Alternate layers of hard and soft rock have been worn down and this has slowly created the wonders of Monument Valley that stand today between 400 and 1200 feet tall.

The People:
The first known inhabitants were the Anasazi Indians more than 1500 years ago. They suddenly disappeared from the region around the 13th century but thousands of their ancient pueblo sites dot the area still.

Harry Goulding's:
www.gouldings.com


Harry Goulding was the first trader to settle in the valley.


 The story is that when the Depression hit his trade severely he decided to go to Hollywood to try to persuade a movie mogul to make cowboy  films in the valley. He waited outside the office of John Ford for 6 days with no success, but on the 7th day was given a couple of minutes of the great man's time. John Ford took one look at the photos Goulding had brought with him and decided this would be too good a place to miss.
We visited the original 1920s trading post, looking as it did at the time.

Downstairs was the shop with its wonderful scales.
Then upstairs the sitting room.


You could just imagine them clustered around the  radio in the 1930s listening to Roosevelt's weekly 'Fireside  Chats'.
The kitchen with every mod con..... including a telephone...




The Potato House outside was John Wayne's home in "She Wore a Yellow Ribbon" (1946)


After looking around it was time for lunch. Becky recommended we try the Prickly Pear Iced Tea and the Navajo Taco (made with Navajo frybread). Delicious!
She'd also arranged for her friend Barbara, who manages the restaurant and is married to the son of the local Navajo Medicine man, to come and answer any questions we had about the Navajo.

Jeep Ride:
After lunch we piled into jeeps for a white-knuckle drive into the valley.

More traditional transport but unfortunately it wasn't on offer to use.



Just to prove we were really there and haven't just got all this info from the internet.


Here are just a few of the pictures we took.  Each of the rocks has a name based on the shape it resembles. The pictures only give an idea of this unreal place.  You need to visit to believe!!



Even John Wayne turned up - at least we think it might have been him but we were too far away to check!!




John Wayne in 'McLintock':
Back on the bus and the screens came down again for a showing of this famous film in which he starred with Maureen O'Hara.



Thursday 27 September 2012

25 SEPTEMBER 2012: GRAND CANYON TO LAKE POWELL

Day 9:

Breakfast at 7, bags at 8, bus leaves at 9am.

Desert View Lookout, East Rim:
Leaving the Grand Canyon Village, we drove along the east Rim for a short while to the Watchtower


It was built in 1932 and designed by the architect Mary Coulter, who also designed the interior of El Tovar. It's an observation station now for visitors, but was also intended to bring about a better understanding of the American Indian and his life. It is a re-creation of the strange towers scattered all over the Southwest. These towers were used for the storage of food and also for protection. Inside, there was a ladder to climb to upper levels, and under attack this ladder was removed to foil attempts to storm the tower. ......All very similar to keeps in medieval castles.


As we climbed we entered the kiva, the sacred ceremonial chamber. Modern-day Indians still have kivas as meeting halls and places of worship.

The wall decorations were modern Hopi artworks based on their ancient culture.

  • The large circular painting tells the SNAKE LEGEND: the story of the beginning of the Snake Dances, It is also the story of the first man to navigate the Colorado.



  • This is the LITTLE WAR GOD, distinguished by his bow and arrow.



The Mule Train:
We hadn't been able on this tour to go to the foot of the Grand Canyon, but Becky, our guide, had promised us a surprise. As we got back in the bus screens descended and we sat back for a showing of 'The Mule Train'. It is a great film using lots of early 20th century film footage and still photography depicting the terrifying ride on mules along tracks to the innermost parts of the canyon. It gave us a great idea of what such a trek would be like, and also made us vow NEVER to go on one!

The Glen Canyon Dam:
After a lunch stop at the Cameron Trading Post, our destination was to be the Glen Canyon Dam. Built between 1957 and 1964, and producing its first electricity in 1966, it flooded the once-spectacular Glen Canyon and irrevocably altered the Colorado river's character and ecosystem by changing the ancient cycles of flood and drought into a predictable, constant flow. Controversy still rages today between those who argue that the benefit of the electricity it brings outweighs what has been lost.

Lake Powell:
The Dam created Lake Powell, America's 2nd largest man-made lake. The lake is 186 miles long, with more than 1,000 miles of meandering shoreline.
We were staying in the Lake Powell Resort, right on the lake shore, and with rooms looking out onto the lake.

The balcony of our room gave us a good view of the many houseboats on the lake. These floating mansions for up to 12 people come with every home comfort and are a popular, and very expensive, holiday choice here.




A boat trip had been scheduled for soon after our arrival, and for 90 minutes we meandered through Antelope Canyon with its magnificent rock formations.





 The canyon narrowed to the point where we could almost reach out and touch the rocks.


And by the time we got back the sun was setting.










23+24 September 2012: GRAND CANYON

Days 7 & 8:

'Leave it as it is. You cannot improve on it, not a bit': Theodore Roosevelt speaking of the South Rim (1903)

'For a time it is too much like a scale model or an optical illusion.' : Joseph Wood Krutch

'The Grand Canyon is something that all astronauts look for from space, and everyone is excited as a child when they spot it for the first time.': Ken Bowson, Mission Commander, International Space Station.

The Bare Statistics:

  • 277 miles long
  • 18 miles across at the widest point
  • average 10 miles across from South to North rim
  • 1 mile deep on average.
  • highest point is nearly 9,000 feet above sea level.

How old is it?
The top layers of rock are c.270 million years old, while the inner canyon is about 1.8 billion years old.
The lower 2,000 feet of canyon was cut and eroded in the last 750,000 years.

How it was made:
The canyon was formed by huge torrents of water carrying loads of dry, rocky sediment, cutting deep into the rocks of an uplifted plateau. As the cuts got deeper, the land around them gave way and fell apart, thus creating a deep and wide hole in the plateau.


There ARE no words to describe it.
If you get the chance, go and see it! It will live with you forever.