We set off to drive the Big Sur Coast Highway, the 90 mile stretch of Highway 1, completed in the 1930s, connecting Carmel to Cambria. It runs along jagged cliffs and rocky beaches, through redwood forests, over historic bridges and past innumerable parks. This was going to be a long day as we were going to be stopping every time we saw a vista point or layby that promised a good view.
The weather wasn't the best as we set off, with mist and some low fog.
Carmel Highlands
Not long out of Carmel, the terrain began to change and we began to get glimpses of stunning coastline.
Garrapata State Park is not much-visited despite its rocky shore.
Bixby Bridge:
The bridge was built in the 1930s as part of a major road-building programme under President Roosevelt's 'New Deal' to get the American economy out of the Depression. This cement open-spanned arched bridge has been used in countless car commercials over the years.
As we approached the Point Sur Light Station we could see sand banks out to rock islands and isolated sea pools.
Point Sur Light Station:
The Light Station keeps watch over ships navigating near the rocky waters of Big Sur, and is the only complete 19th century light station in California open to the public, albeit in a limited way. It was first lit in 1889 (though now fully automated) and families only stopped living and working in the tiny stone-built compound in 1974.
Not many places to stop for coffee, but we managed to find one that doubled as an art gallery as well as giving a good view of the road.
Another rocky cove, and the mist still hadn't lifted.
We noticed clumps of pampas grasses growing at the side of much of the road just like in New Zealand.
McWay Falls:
We took the (easy) Overlook Trail to look at this waterfall which cascades year-round off a cliff and onto the beach in a remote cove.
We probably wouldn't have known about this waterfall but for a conversation we'd had, back in the Cinnamon Bear Inn in Mammoth Lakes, with a Californian couple who'd just been there and were singing its praises. We're glad we didn't miss it.
In 1940 a magnificent residence, Saddle Back Ranch , was built near the current viewing point for the falls. It was never lived in after 1956 and only some of the shell remains.
It was eventually bequeathed to California as a State Park.
A few miles further on, Steve climbed over a stile and disappeared for a few minutes. He'd followed a sandy track towards the sea and had had to clamber over this large rock to get there.
Willow Creek:
We had interest here from birds and squirrels as well the variation of scenery on both sides of the road.
We were near our destination but what were the mounds on the beach?? Sue thought they were large rocks, but, if so, why were so many people getting out of their cars and taking pictures of them?
On a closer look we realised they were elephant seals, and there were dozens of them!
These huge torpedo-shaped mammals weigh between 1,600 lbs. (females)and 5,000 lbs. (males). The adult males start in November to return to these beaches, followed in December by the females who give birth in December and January.
While the adults are away, the juvenile and sub-adults remain, awaiting their return.
The juvenile males spar to develop much-needed skills for real-life challenges when they are old enough to mate. Click on the video below to see them sparring.
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